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The produce market is the heart and soul of a place. It is even more exotic when it is in a foreign country. The market at Casablanca in Morocco where I was recently a guest chef was an intriguing sensory assault. A riot of colourful fruits and vegetables, an amazing array of fresh dates, brilliant olives, almighty almonds, freshly cut camels head, live turtles, the sexiest saffron, and fresh fish and sea creatures I have not seen before. All this watched over by friendly men resplendent in their jelabers, sipping sweet mint tea while passing around a metre long hookah belching apple scented smoke. Morocco is also whole lambs and goats displayed in the open air: choose the portion you want and wait while it is butchered, then take it to the nearby cook who will expertly prepare it over open coals. If you prefer you can try freshly baked breads from the wood fired oven or addictive pastries served by exotic dark eyed women.
Bizarrely, I arrived to commence cooking with 5 days before the holy month of Ramadan had finished. During Ramadan there is no eating, smoking or drinking during daylight hours, fairly ordinary for a guest chef, so my Moroccan friend suggested we head for the desert for some sightseeing. On the first day I witnessed goats perched in the native argon tree (no I had not partaken in any of Morocco’s mind altering exotics), where they eat the fruit before expelling the seed. The seed is then collected by the local farmers and crushed to extract the unique “argon oil” a nutty flavoured liquid not dissimilar to macadamia oil. I also visited markets with fragrant displays of Morocco’s most popular spices saffron, cumin, dried ginger, cinnamon, turmeric and paprika. The most revered combination of spices is known as “ras el hanout’ which translates as ‘top of the shelf’. It is a widely varying mixture of approximately 30 of each vendor’s best spices.
Fish markets in Morocco occur on the beach where the fishermen display their catch on the sand alongside their boats. After animated displays of bargaining my friend purchased our evening meal which was barbequed under the Ramadan new moon and a mesmerising orange blue desert sunset.
Moroccan cuisine is very traditional with African, Arabic, and European influences. However, the hallmark of the cuisine is the marrying of fruit and meat. Add some judicious spicing and we have something amazing. I experienced a great moment in gastronomy when served a saffron, cumin and cinnamon scented lamb tagine with an almond and fruit cous cous. The accompanying smoky disk of semolina bread was the perfect, and only, eating utensil provided. On another occasion a roasted sweet pepper, preserved lemon and parsley salad with a whole local snapper was heavenly. The Moroccan pastries and desserts are wondrous. Any visitor to Morocco should try the B’stilla pastry made with pigeon and the “Kteffa” a dessert of layered philo, ground almonds, sugar and warm custard. For breakfast try any one of Morocco’s fabulous range of non-genetically modified fruits. Here they are grown the way they have been for centuries and may not always look stunning but the reward is in the eating. Oranges with fresh cinnamon, or melons flavoured with rose water are a must. I found the pomegranate juice fabulous, while any dessert comprising the local honey is incredible. Who has ever heard of a beetroot and orange blossom water salad with icing sugar? Especially one that tastes great!
Possibly, the finest restaurant dining experience was at “ la Squala” an amazing fortress/ restaurant in Casablanca. It was the inspiration for my recipe.
Moroccan cuisine is built upon fresh, interesting flavours presented in an elegant and casual way. My week showcasing “La cuisine Australie” was packed and very well reviewed, and sure, if you feel like a Spanner crab chowder or FINS fish in Casablanca they are on the menu at restaurant Bavaroise. However I wonder who was teaching whom?
Serves 6
• 75 g dried dates
• 150ml milk
• 10g almond meal
• ½ tsp cinnamon
• ½ tsp orange blossom water
• 100ml milk
1. Soak dates in 150ml milk overnight
2. Place dates and milk in saucepan, bring to boil. Allow to cool then blend till smooth.
3. Add almond meal, cinnamon, orange blossom and milk. Blend and pour into 60ml shot glasses.
• 200g sweet potato
• 2tbls caster sugar
• ½ tsp ground cinnamon
• 1 tsp ground ginger
• 150g natural yoghurt
1. Peel and chop sweet potato and place in cold salted water. Bring to boil and cook until tender
2. Discard water, puree in blender and pass through fine sieve. Cool and transfer into mixing bowl.
3. Whisk in sugar, cinnamon, ginger and yoghurt.
• 6 egg yolks
• 150g caster sugar
• 500ml cream
• 250ml milk
• ½ vanilla bean
• 200ml sugar syrup
• 7g edible dried rose petals
• 100g pistachios
• 2 tsp rose petal essence
1. To make ice cream base whisk yolks and sugar together
2. In saucepan place cream, milk and vanilla bean. Gradually bring to boil. Cool slightly
3. Pour hot liquid onto yolk mix and whisk
4. Pour mixture back into clean saucepan and return to low heat
5. Stir constantly until mixture thickens and coats the back of the spoon. Do not bring to boil, strain through fine sieve and cool quickly
6. Place rose petals in saucepan with sugar syrup and slowly bring to boil. Allow petals to re-hydrate
7. Roast pistachios in moderate oven until lightly toasted. Cool and roughly chop
8. Churn ice cream base in machine. When semi churned add pistachios, rose petals, syrup, and rose petal essence. Continue churning until frozen
9. Alternatively if you have no ice cream machine, place base in a bowl in the freezer. Allow to set for approx. 20mins and whisk. After another 20minutes add pistachios, rose petals, syrup and rose petal essence and whisk to combine. Return to freezer. Continue whisking at 20 minute intervals, until it holds its own shape (like whipped cream), may take up to 2 hours.
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