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Rapa Nui and Chile

In my experience Latinos speak loudly, frequently and with passion. It is not surprising their food is served the same way.

Eating may be a basic need but eating while holidaying in Chile or on Easter Island is a sensual experience - a mixture of freshness, exotica, color, fun and love all spoken in another language and served on a different plate.

Easter Island, also known as Rapa Nui, is an isolated island in the Pacific approximately 4000kms from its closest neighbours Tahiti and Chile. It has a strong Polynesian influence and is best known for its many mois (the unique stone statues that inhabit the island). Most people visit the island for its archaeological treasures. However, it should also be known for incredibly fresh seafood.

Picture an island where you feast on snapper ceviche while watching the local horses drink from the hotel swimming pool. Unusual. Rapa Nui is certainly unique. It has a vibrant food scene where restaurants serve, among other things, swimmingly fresh tuna sashimi . Lunch may be empanada -the pastry turnovers ubiquitous in both Easter Island and Chile. Sure they come in beef and chicken, but here you can also enjoy the pipi and cheese and fresh tuna versions from many “fast food” outlets. The best food markets in the world are a riot of colour and aroma. In Rapa Nui I marveled at blushing red tomatoes, just plucked chickens and the freshest of fish, some I had never seen before. On a coastal walk I discovered a tree laden with yellow and pink wild guavas. There is certainly something magical about anything you eat that is picked or caught in the wild.


Chile takes up from Easter Island with the most brilliant range of seafood in South America. Chilean coldwater fish is certainly different from our local catch. It is endowed with an intensity of flavour in both fish and crustaceans that is in contrast to the more delicate flavours of our seafood. Chileans often eat their seafood raw. Sea urchin in Australia is often approached with the enthusiasm of a dental appointment. In Chile I relished a sea urchin salad and scallop ceviche, with the biggest wild scallops I have ever seen. How about a raw octopus sashimi? Fantastic. Abalone is an expensive luxury in most places in the world. Chileans enjoy it regularly; in the Santiago Central market it is both plentiful and cheap. You can also enjoy raw razor clam salads, king crab, eels, algae and lobster. “Congrio” is a long smooth silver fish that is excellent cut into steaks or poached in a casserole. Haddock, salmon and sea bass are other great fish. Chileans also farm freshwater trout and salmon.

Chilean salads are worth a mention. While we often throw all sorts of things into our salads Chilean salads usually comprise Lettuce, tomato, thrice washed onion, coriander and great vinaigrette. I was told that thrice washing onion made it more palatable and easier to digest.
Cumin, oregano, fresh coriander and salt are the seasonings most used by “Chilanos” when cooking. “Color” is the name of a uniquely Chilean orange, red sauce made by heating garlic and paprika in olive oil.. It is used to add flavor and eye appeal to many dishes. Chilli often provides an added dimension. Another popular flavouring is “pebre” a sauce made of onion, vinegar, olive, garlic, chili and coriander. It is excellent with fish.

While Chile is rightly famous for its seafood they also do interesting things with other meats, beans and corn. A famous national dish is “Pastel de Choclo”, a layered shepherds pie look-alike comprising a bottom layer of beef, then eggs, raisins, spices and a corn pudding topping. “Salpicon” is a lunchtime specialty of beef and purple potatoes best enjoyed with a glass of Chile’s excellent and inexpensive wine.
Desserts reflect the strong influence of German immigrants who brought exceptional bread and pastry making skills.

Chilean food is a mixture of Spanish, German, Native- Indian, English and Italian cuisines. Of late the Mexicans and Asians have added their influence culminating in one very interesting and exciting gastronomic experience.

Chilean Ceviche (cebiche )

Serves 4 as an entree

One kilo of Cobia, Snapper, Trevalla, or Jewfish fillet. (Skinless, boneless)
One medium red onion sliced finely
1 small tomato diced finely
1 small clove of garlic minced
2tbls of chopped continental parsley
2tbls of chopped coriander
200mls of lemon juice
200mls of sour orange or lime juice
Salt and pepper to taste
One red chili chopped finely

Method:
Cut fish fillets into one cm cubes and place into a mixing bowl . Pour citrus juices over fish. Leave to marinate for 4 hours, occasionally stirring mixture with a wooden spoon. Add all other ingredients.
NOTE: do not use any metal elements after you have marinated the fish with lemon juice.

In Chile I enjoyed ceviche with a salad comprising tomato, thrice washed onions and lettuce. It is also great with fresh corn and sweet potato. However, the best way to enjoy it is with corn tortillas and avocado like they do in Argentina.